Mekane goveđe bržole ili odresci u gustom umaku od rajčica, crnog vina i gljiva – pojednostavljeni boeuf bourgignon
Kada se spomenu domaća, zrela govedina i gljive, naravno da asocijacije idu ka jednom od najboljih jela kuharske enciklopedije –francuskom bouef bourguignon. Međutim, ovo klasično jelo francuske kuhinje, ta neiscrpna inspiracija svakog kuhara, zahtjeva svoje vrijeme i posebne prilike.
Recimo, da vam nudim jednu inačicu – recept rođen u trenutku kada sam uspjela dobiti krasne bržole domaćeg, mlađeg bika. Ni june – ni govedo, tako se bar meni činilo. Onaj tip goveđeg mesa koji već u dodiru s toplinom počne puštati tamni, smeđi umak, a meso je mekano, sočno i prepuno ukusa.
Vrijeme pripreme: 2h
Za 4 -6 osoba
Potrebni sastojci:
4 odkoštene goveđe bržolice
1 glava crvenog luka
2 -3 režnja češnjaka
3 -4 jž brašna
1 dl pirea od rajčica (passata)
2 jž koncentrata od rajčica
1 dl crnog vina (teran, burgundac, chiraz)
naribani muškatni oraščić ili ¼ žličice pimenta, list lovora
2 -3 jž maslinovog ulja
300 – 500 g vrganja (ovdje su bili zamrznuti), može i šampinjona
2 režnja češnjaka
30g maslaca (ili maslinovog ulja)
sol, papar, ljuta papričica, sjeckani peršin
Priprema:
Najprije lagano potucite bržole – zavisi koje su debeljine, ali računajte da ti naresci moraju biti barem 1 cm debeli. Crveni luk narežite na fine komade.
Izaberite duboku, tešku tavu promjera 28 – 30 cm. Stavite ulje, zagrijte ga. Goveđe odreske uvaljajte u brašno i onda ih složite na ugrijano ulje. Popecite – okrenite ih i posolite: ako imate mesa samo za jednu tavu, onda u ovom trenutku pored mesa ubacite fino narezan luk i koncentrat od rajčice. Neka vam se sve zajedno popeče i kada počne zagarati zalijte s vinom, nataknite jedan odrezak na vilicu i njime deglazirajte dno tave, stružeći i miješajući. Ako imate više mesa, onda najprije ispecite prvu turu, meso odstranite na tanjur, a ovaj postupak načinite u drugom punjenju tave dodavši i prije popečene odreske. Prilikom ovog deglaziranja, važno je da se popeče i koncentrat rajčica – to će dati gustoću umaku ali i zaokružiti ukuse.
Trebate imati složeno meso u tavi – sačekajte da alkohol ishlapi. Sada dolijte pire od rajčica, ponovno malo popecite i dolijte vode da pokrije meso. Dodajte 2 -3 česna češnjaka, obavezno muškatnog oraščića (ili čak i pimenta, koji je »all spice« kombinacija, te sadrži mirodije koje su stvorene za goveđe umake). Nastavite kuhati, na laganoj vatri, stalno pazeći da ne zagori – vodu ćete dolijevati u više navrata i to malo po malo, pazeći da odresci budu uvijek prekriveni tekućinom.
Kada je meso omekšalo, dodajte mu gljive spremljene na sljedeći način:
Gljive narežite na lijepe komade. Na tavi zagrijte masnoću, dodajte list lovora, dva česna, samo prepolovljena (kasnije ćete ih baciti). Gljive naglo popecite da dobiju finu smećkastu boju. Ubacite ih u umak s mesom – sve pretresite, dolijte još malo vode ako treba, i neka sve još malo prokuha kako bi se svi ukusi izjednačili.
Napomena: Ovakve vrsta umaka – pa i originalna francuska govedina u burgundcu – zalijevaju se juhom, umjesto vodom. Ja ne volim žestoka jela – jer kuhanjem ta jušna osnova postaje koncentrirani stok.
Posluživanje:
Osim uobičajenih priloga, poput različitih vrsta krumpira, ovo jelo je izvrsno uz zagorske štrukle. Osobito ga volim ponuditi sa piticama – ružicama od sira ili sa prženim kroketima od krumpira. Salata, miješana zelena sa nekoliko vrsta radiča i endivije se provjereno savršeno ljubi s goveđim »gulašastim« umacima.
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